English Castle of Cullera

The castle of Cullera is located in the southernmost side of the mount of Cullera, the so called Golden Mountain. The castle can be accessed from the village at the feet of the mount, and more specifically through the pedestrian access called... leer más

The castle of Cullera is located in the southernmost side of the mount of Cullera, the so called Golden Mountain. The castle can be accessed from the village at the feet of the mount, and more specifically through the pedestrian access called Revoltes Noves but also through the road that starts at Barrio de Sant Antoni.
The castle is a 10th century construction, from Caliphate times, built by the Cordoba state to control and defend the territory, specially the coast and the Júcar river mouth. The existence of such enclave in those old times coincided with a revitalization and urban development of the Islamic east side of the peninsula, the Sharq al-Andalus, mostly in the coastal strip.
With the collapse of the caliphate, the Castle of Cullera became part of the defensive system at the southern frontier of the independent Valencia Taifa, and remained a crucial element until the first half of the 12th century, along the Almoravid period and later on, along the Almohad kingdom.
The fortress passed onto Christian hands in the 13th century, after a failed first attempt to conquer it by Jaime the 1st, possibly due to a lack of supplies and war materials. In any case, in 1239 after the siege of Valencia, the Castle of Cullera was under the control of the Conqueror.
After the Conquest, the Castle belonged to several lords. First, half of the fortress was donated to the Hospitalarios while the rest was property of the Castellnou Viscount. In 1319, half of the Hospitalarios property was transferred to the recently created Montesa Order. In the year 1330 it was added to the Royal Crown, although in 1341 was pawned to the Lord of Segorbe and bought in 1344, by the Count of Terranova. In 1358 the castle was rescued by the king Pedro IV who included it in the Royal patrimony. However, one year after the castle was sold to the royal cupbearer Esteve de Aragón. During the War of the two Pedros—between Pedro IV of Aragon and Pedro I of Castile— the castle was taken by the Castilian troops, although later recovered by those of Aragon. A great part of it was demolished and had to be rebuilt. In the year 1381 the king sold the castle to the city of Valencia, who kept it until 1402, when the king Martín I known as “the Human” returned it again to the Royal Patrimony, until 1707.
We must clarify, dear visitor, that the coast of Valencia was, along the years, an attractive spot for Berber pirates. Nevertheless with the arrival of the 16th century, the situation became worse with the coming on scene of the Turkish pirates. The defence of the coast became a priority and so did the improvements in the Castle of Cullera.
Therefore, if the 13, 14 and 15th centuries were tumultuous times for the Castle of Cullera, the 16th century brought the need to improve its defence due to the rise of the pirate attacks. The adaptation consisted of building a series of bastions and ravelins, reinforcing the wall curtains with inside slopes and placing the artillery in different towers. All these improvements, together with the construction of watch towers in the coastline, the reinforcement of the church-fortress and the later construction of the town wall were aimed, as we said, at guaranteeing the defence of the village and the coast from pirate lootings and attacks.
During the following centuries, the 17th and 18th, the castle enjoyed a period of political stability that would imply a series of modifications in the castle appearance. In fact, this transformation was due to the need of having inhabitable spaces to house the hermit and the pilgrims. A series of buildings were added to house the castle guard as well as a hostel. This caused the castle to lose its original character in favour of a more domestic appearance. In those years, the entrance porch, the Sea Room, the Sacristy and “the casteller” house were built. The state of ruin of these rooms and the poor materials used in their construction caused their demolition during the renovation works.
The 19th century witnessed a remarkable military activity due to the French or Independence War, but then only a few fortification works were carried out.
It was later on, during the Carlist Wars, when the main fortification works where performed. During the first and second Carlist wars the fortification works hardly happened in the castle; however during the third war, lines of loopholes were built in the Main Tower, the Bastion, the Western Wall and the Ravelin. However, maybe the most important refurbishment took place in the Main Tower (Torre Mayor), as the vaulted room inside was demolished and filled in to be converted into a platform for the gunfire. The Cisterns’ Patio (Patio de las Cisternas) was also substantially altered since its northern half was levelled out to reach the level of the southern half. The so called Elizabethan garrisons were built on this place to house the troops. When the level of the patio was raised, loopholes and access stairs were built in the western wall.
After these war episodes, the castle fell into a state of neglect; only the presence of a hermit who took care of the Virgen del Castillo chapel kept the castle still standing. Later, during the second half of the 20th century, a community of Franciscan monks established there, and a sanctuary was built next to the castle. Parts of the castle were refurbished for a school use, such as the Weapons’ room and the Chapel, while the patio served as an improvised soccer field.

Today the fortress, located at the highest point of the ensemble, is made up of a series of elements, towers and wall curtains structured around a central patio. The fortress has an irregular rectangular plan; the longer sides corresponding to... leer más

Today the fortress, located at the highest point of the ensemble, is made up of a series of elements, towers and wall curtains structured around a central patio.
The fortress has an irregular rectangular plan; the longer sides corresponding to the western wall (which was mainly built in Elizabethan times, with organized loopholes and oriented towards the village), and the eastern wall looking onto the sea and reinforced by the “White Tower” (Torre Blanca). The shorter sides contain the robust Torre Mayor (Main Tower) and the Bastion, as well as a wall curtain interrupted by the Round or Raspatller Tower. The Cap d’Altar Tower rises in the southeast corner.
The access is located in the western wall through a small opening with a semicircular arch made of bricks and protected by the Ravelin. Inside, a corridor covered as a porch in old times acts as vestibule for the different rooms and different levels. In this first level we can find the Chapel or Ermita Vella, formed by two naves in the shape of an “L”. Here we can also find an access to the cistern and a stairway next to it that leads to the ward called Pati dels Aljups, located at a slightly higher level.
From the Patio we can access the floors above the Chapel: the Guard Room and the Sea Room terrace, where the hermit´s house and the hostel where located. From this point we can also access the White Tower’s upper section and terrace. Here we have access to the parapet walk, from which to climb to the Bastion platform and from there to the Main Tower, the most impregnable spot in the fortified premises.

We will access the castle through an outer stairway that ends at the platform of the so called Ravelin or external defensive tower, which leads to the fortress’ entrance door. Nevertheless, the visitor must know that this is not the original... leer más

We will access the castle through an outer stairway that ends at the platform of the so called Ravelin or external defensive tower, which leads to the fortress’ entrance door. Nevertheless, the visitor must know that this is not the original access, but was determined by the construction of the Sanctuary in 1896 and the rooms attached in the 20th century, which modified the medieval structure.
Therefore, we will need to make an effort of imagination to picture its original layout.
Before these constructions existed, the access to the castle was located between the barbican and the fortress, at the side that looks onto the sea. We do know that the entrance was located in the eastern wall of the first albacara (the outer ward of the fortress) known as Albacar Vell, defended by the Cap d’Altar Tower. Here an elbow-shaped corridor originated and run between the barbican and the fortress, giving access to the castle right below the current door. Only the final part of these two elements —barbican and corridor— has been preserved: the part around the access stairs that can be seen before entering the fortress. The barbican here was destroyed to build the new fortress entrance at the beginning of the 20th century.
The ravelin, the outer tower of a fort’s wall that helps defend the fortress, was a very typical construction in the 16th century as it allowed the installation of artillery at its top.
The ravelin at the castle of Cullera was built in order to better defend the entrance door and located against the barbican of Almohad times. This refurbishment needed the opening of hole in the barbican in order to access the fortress. This hole was maintained until the beginning of the 20th century, when it was destroyed to create the new access to the castle. The loopholes in the north wall of the ravelin date back to the 19th century, to the tumultuous period of the Carlist Wars.

Let’s go through the door, dear visitor, to find the Chapel or Ermita Vella. The main entrance to the building is on the right side and gives access to the important collections of Cullera’s History and Archaeology Museum. The first thing... leer más

Let’s go through the door, dear visitor, to find the Chapel or Ermita Vella. The main entrance to the building is on the right side and gives access to the important collections of Cullera’s History and Archaeology Museum.
The first thing that will catch our attention is the stylised Chapel itself. It is a religious building built between the mid 15th century and the second half of the 16th century by the stone mason Joan d’Alacant. It was originally a hall church covered by cross vaults, whose ogive arches gather at a keystone and rest on capitals on top of stone pilasters. These arches provide height and harmony to the ensemble.
In the second half of the 16th century it was decided to build a new hall in the image and likeness of the chapel, although with remarkable differences in the design of arches and vaults. Thus, the two were unified forming an L shaped plan. In the beginning this north wing was not used as a chapel but as dining room – as the documents of the time state; it was not until the 18th century that it was used for religious purposes. This space gives way to an open area or patio through a large diaphragmatic arch, that is, an arch set in transversal direction to the space constructed. This patio was paved with ceramic bricks and had two benches attached to the wall. A staircase communicating the Patio de las Cisternas was built at its left side. Above the arch’s keystone there is a niche crowned by a small roof to contain a religious image, probably that of the Virgin of the Castle, to whom the chapel was dedicated.
There is written evidence of the bricking up of all openings and accesses during the 17th and 18th centuries, so as to later fill in the space to level the Patio de las Cisternas and build a new construction on top of it called the Sacristy. It is at this point when the dining hall becomes part of the chapel and is open to the cult, originating that singular L shaped plan.
The archaeological excavations carried out below the Chapel have given light to interesting data about the evolution of construction works in this space. Thus, we know that prior to the construction of the chapel there was a Islamic building that had an upper floor and underground warehouses. The towers Cap d´Altar and Respatller were attached to this building; the second tower had direct access from the building’s ground floor. The archaeological materials found in the excavations have been dated between the 11th and 12th centuries.

The patio is the central space in the castle that gives access to all buildings. The ill-named Parade Ground is known historically as Patio de los Aljibes or Cisterns’ Patio. The two cisterns found in the southern part of the castle are the only... leer más

The patio is the central space in the castle that gives access to all buildings. The ill-named Parade Ground is known historically as Patio de los Aljibes or Cisterns’ Patio. The two cisterns found in the southern part of the castle are the only genuine constructions that the patio houses.
Let’s go back in time and try to picture this space in the past. The excavations conducted have shown that the patio was lower than it is currently. In fact, during these excavation works, three different levels of pavement have been detected:
The first pavement dates from the 16th century, when the whole surface of the patio was filled with compacted soil, without hiding the cisterns.
A second paving job was carried out in the 18th century, when the southern half of the patio was paved with ceramic flooring, covering the cisterns.
The third pavement, performed during the Carlist Wars in the 19th century, consisted of filling the patio’s northern half to level with the southern half, so that both parts had the same height to be covered with ceramic paving.
The construction of the so called Sacristy – the lower floor in the castle keeper’s house – implied the elevation of the patio 3 meters higher (except for the area occupied by the Chapel’s entrance porch) and the permanent closing up of the northern access to the Chapel through the arch, rendering useless the patio before it as well.
The building of the “New Rooms” – in the 18th century configured the current layout of the patio, in two different levels.
Let’s now talk about the Elizabethan loopholes’ wall, which is today part of a series of constructions and renovations that were carried out in the castle towards the middle of the 19th century as a consequence of the Carlist Wars.
But first we must clarify that this wall is much older. The archaeological excavations have helped establish its constructive sequence: it is originally an Islamic wall refurbished in the 16th century with the aperture of two portholes to locate two swivel cannons. In the 18th century, the southern half of this wall collapsed and it was rebuilt with a slight setback, that is, shifted from its original position as it can still be seen today. Finally, in the 19th century and also for war purposes, the last renovations were carried out to adapt the wall to the needs derived from the Carlist Wars.

The visitor knows that every castle worth its salt has a Guard Room. That of Cullera’s castle is a rectangular room located above the Chapel. This room occupies the upper part of an old Islamic building, although the room as such was built after... leer más

The visitor knows that every castle worth its salt has a Guard Room. That of Cullera’s castle is a rectangular room located above the Chapel. This room occupies the upper part of an old Islamic building, although the room as such was built after the construction of the Chapel. The coexistence of different architectural elements is a constant feature in the Castle. In order to recover the original appearance of the rooms it has been necessary to work hard, carrying out exhaustive excavation works and studying the existing documentation. Nothing has been trusted to chance, and our visitors will be able to admire how much and how well it has been done, for instance, in this Guard Room. Witness of the former Islamic building is the rammed earth wall alternating with layers of lime and the horseshoe arch, typical in Islamic Art, which was the original access to this room until the 18th century. The access from the patio was done through a staircase that no longer exists, which gave access to the room through this horseshoe arch, now turned into a bay window.
During the archaeological works, three different roofs were discovered, each one corresponding to a different period. The first and lowest roof was from Islamic times. The second dates from the 16th century and the third, from the 20th century. The roof we can currently see is a reproduction of that of the 16th century, which consists of a flat roof, with a gentle slope towards the patio for the rain water to run down to the cisterns.
The remains of the former paintings that decorated the walls deserve a special mention. It is a decorative pattern repeated on the upper part of the walls. The room was originally painted in red ochre. Over this base colour, today gone, we can see numerous charcoal tracings that correctly indicate the location of the drawings. At the top, two decorative elements have been conserved depicting a simple lobe shape and a bell hanging from it. These are carved in the wall, later painted in white and marked with the tip of a paintbrush.
The outlines and the images therein contained are decorated in black paint.
This room also showcases high interest parietal art remains. For instance, to the left of the horseshoe arch we will see an engraving of an “alquerque”, a draught’s game of Islamic times. We do not know its exact meaning, as its layout is not meant for playing. It was possibly designed as a symbol or entertainment by the person building the arch.
Next to the great window in the west side of the room, we can find the remains of a mural, dating back to the end of the 18th century, that depicts the flag of the Spanish Merchant Navy according to the design commanded by the king Carlos III .The fact of the room being decorated with this flag makes us think of a possible bond between the room and the Merchant Navy, reinforcing the idea of a constant relationship between Cullera and the surrounding and protecting sea.
Next to these paintings, one of the pesetas called “la mà al cul” was found and is now showcased in the Archaeology and History Museum of Cullera. It was minted between the second and third Carlist War, just when the castle started to gain strategic importance.
Besides, the Guard Room has access to two of the oldest towers in the castle: that of the Respatller and that of Cap d´Altar, another fact that proves how this room occupied an older space that was shared by these two towers, probably back in the 11th century.

The Respatller Tower, with a semicircular plan, has an Islamic origin. Together with the Cap de l’Altar tower, both had the function to defend, just like lime mortar and masonry colossus, the entrance to the main fortress of Cullera, located in... leer más

The Respatller Tower, with a semicircular plan, has an Islamic origin. Together with the Cap de l’Altar tower, both had the function to defend, just like lime mortar and masonry colossus, the entrance to the main fortress of Cullera, located in the eastern wall of the first albacara or walled enclosure. The access, called porta falça devés la mar, gave way to an elbow shaped corridor located between the fortress and the barbican –a defensive structure that served as a support for the outside wall – where this tower was raised.
The visitor shall as well know that the tower plan and the construction technique, together with the archaeological excavations, certify its antiquity and date it back to the times of the dismemberment of Cordoba’s Caliphate, ruling Hisham II, and the formation of small independent kingdoms, the so called first Taifa at the beginning of the 11th century. The similarity with the semicircular towers in Valencia, both dating form the same period, is incredible.
But now, pay attention, dear visitor. During the excavation works, different uses and different renovations were detected, so as to adapt to the historical ups and downs that endangered the integrity of its inhabitants. The first renovation period run from the 14th century to the 16t; during that time the tower’s original access was cancelled. This was located in what today is the chapel- a former Islamic building, as you can see in the southern wall. During the second renovation period, between the 16th and 18th centuries, several refurbishments were made in the castle so as to defend Cullera from the pirate attacks. In this period, the access to the tower was moved to the existing door in the Guard Room. The last renovations took place in the 19th century due to the Carlist Wars, when the tower was furnished with sentry boxes and watch posts, which were cancelled once the conflict was over and the Sanctuary was built, at the end of the 19th century.
One of the first possible written references to this tower could be the mention found in the 16th century works’ chronicles, when it was named as Round Tower and located in the church wall that leads to the albacara.
Nowadays the look of the Islamic tower has been recovered, keeping the level of the terrace and the defensive parapet, as well as the original entrance.

The Cap d’Altar tower—together with that of Respatller— had the important function of defending the main entrance to the fortress of Cullera the “porta falça devés la mar”, located in the eastern wall of the first albacara or protected... leer más

The Cap d’Altar tower—together with that of Respatller— had the important function of defending the main entrance to the fortress of Cullera the “porta falça devés la mar”, located in the eastern wall of the first albacara or protected enclosure, which gave access to an elbow shape corridor that run between the fortress and the barbican.
It is a corner tower with a semicircular plan, solid up to the parapet walk whose access is located in the Guard Room. The plan, the construction technique— masonry and lime mortar—, and the results of the archaeological excavations let us know that the Cap d’Altar tower, just like the Respatller or Round tower, dates back to the times of the dismemberment of Cordoba’s Caliphate and the formation of small independent kingdoms, the so called first Taifa at the beginning of the 11th century.
Also, just as it happens to the Respatller Tower, the similarity with the semicircular towers in Valencia dating form the same period, is incredible.
At present the look of the Islamic tower has been recovered, keeping the level of the terrace and the defensive parapet, as well as the lower loopholes. For that purpose, an 18th century rooftop had to be demolished and a window bricked up, as they altered the original design. Hard works for a tower that suffered all kinds of setbacks along the history. Back in times of Pedro IV, the king himself, after a visit to the castle declared: The lower tower must be rebuilt, the one that stands next to the church”. It is a clear reference to the Cap d’Altar tower, as it already in the 14th had serious maintenance problems.

Our visitors shall exercise their imagination in order to understand how the Sea Room and the “casteller” house were built over the medieval rooms of the castle, and more specifically, over the Chapel and The White Tower. Such works entailed a... leer más

Our visitors shall exercise their imagination in order to understand how the Sea Room and the “casteller” house were built over the medieval rooms of the castle, and more specifically, over the Chapel and The White Tower. Such works entailed a complete change in the fortress design, losing its military character and its original essence. The state of ruin of these rooms was such that they could not be recovered, and therefore, during the renovation works it was decided to bring back the original look of the fortress, prior to its domestic transformation. These two rooms were demolished, but even though, it is interesting to know how they were and what use they had.
The Sea Room was in truth part of the “casteller” or hermit house, designed as a room with large arcades and open to the patio, covered with the same gable roof as the White Tower, but extended over this room. The common roof had cancelled the system that transported the rainwater to the cisterns causing it to stop functioning.
The room had a direct connection with the upper section of the White Tower, where a second door was added after it was walled up inside. A kitchen was built at the top for the hermit and pilgrims who came to the hermitage or to the castle’s Old Chapel. The room next door was used as a bedroom. At the beginning of the 20th century half of the tower was plastered with concrete inside in order to contain a cistern.
The building known as the Sacristy, was not such in truth. It was a rectangular construction with a ground floor, levelled with the patio, and a first floor, at the height of the parapet walk, the Sea Room and the access to the White Tower, and communicated with all of them. The Sacristy served as hostel for the pilgrims, as well as warehouse and dining hall.
We must however add that the excavation works carried out under the Sacristy and the corridor that led to the Cisterns Patio provided interesting data about the life of the castle inhabitants. Thus, we know that they had important household furnishings that enabled them to carry perform the different house tasks, such as cooking, or serving, like glazed pans, casseroles and pots. Some antique plates were as well found, which had been decorated in Manises, Catalonia, Liguria or Tuscany Schools. Also, a great deal of animal remains such as snails, fish bones, mollusc shells and goat and cow bones, since this was the cooking area.

The White or Square Tower has a quadrangular plan and was built with one side attached to the existing Islamic wall, over which the tower was raised. There is no certainty of the dates when it was built, although the materials used— concrete and... leer más

The White or Square Tower has a quadrangular plan and was built with one side attached to the existing Islamic wall, over which the tower was raised. There is no certainty of the dates when it was built, although the materials used— concrete and masonry—and its morphology—empty tower—, let us think of the end period of the Almohad domination. In any case, the construction falls somewhere between the 11th and the 16th century, as the works chronicles written in the 16th century refer to the renovation works carried out in the castle during the times of the constant pirate attacks, where the White Tower is cited as the place where the gunpowder was kept. Saying that it was advisable to move it somewhere else in order to better defend the main entrance to the castle.
Let’s now provide some more details about the tower: as for now, we know there was an important constructive activity in the castle towards the end of the Almohad period, end of the 12th century and beginning of the 13th. The Main Tower was then built over an existing one, being the albacara or lower enclosure and the walls of the Islamic suburb as well projected. For this reason, dear visitor, the White Tower is thought to have been built at this time. The peculiar layout of the loopholes in the corners and the external holes that were used to locate the parapets, are both very similar to those of the Moorish Queen Tower or Saint Anna, whose construction period was established in the final days of the Muslim domination thanks to an archaeological intervention and a recent restoration.
Let’s admire the White Tower that rises 16 meters above the ground and then head to the inside, divided into two floors: the lower level can be accessed from the Sea Room terrace. It has a terrace with loopholes that overlooks the splendid bay of Cullera. This terrace is also prepared to collect the rainwater and transport it to the cisterns.
It is very likely that one of the rooms in the lower level was at some time used as a Sacristy, complementing the Chapel needs. In the second half of the 18th century, a kitchen was built in the upper level for the hermit as well as for the pilgrims coming to the castle hermitage. For that purpose it was necessary to brick up the loopholes and build a small one slope roof, which totally modified the military character of the watchtower.
Moreover, the Sea Room and the Sacristy were built right in front of the tower. The first was in truth the house of the “casteller”, built with large arcades and open to the patio. The Sacristy, besides functioning as a hostel for pilgrims, was used as a warehouse and dining hall. In the 20th century, half of the tower was plastered with concrete inside to hold a cistern.
During the renovation works in the tower, some original openings and loopholes were found and maintained so as to return it to its original appearance. It was discovered that it did not use to be roofed, but had a terrace with loopholes with an access from the Sea Room through a wooden staircase; also, the terrace floor had a slight slope so as to direct the rain water to the cisterns using a system of ceramic channels built into the wall, since water reservoirs were for a long time a primary need.

We must clarify, dear visitor, that the east curtain is the piece of wall that demarcates the fortress in the east and runs from the White or Square Tower to the Bastion. Once clarified this point, we must say that the curtain wall has undergone... leer más

We must clarify, dear visitor, that the east curtain is the piece of wall that demarcates the fortress in the east and runs from the White or Square Tower to the Bastion.
Once clarified this point, we must say that the curtain wall has undergone several restorations along the centuries, due to the historical ups and downs that have left their traces in its features, since this is the part of the castle that must have suffered the most intense enemy attacks, most of all, during the times of pirate raids.
In fact, many of the renovation works carried out are related to the construction of the Bastion and its terrace, places where defence artillery was located.
Investigations have shown that a part of the curtain wall-from the White Tower to the external toe- was rebuilt in masonry and mortar. However, the rest of the curtain up to the Bastion is different, as it has a mud wall base of Islamic times, covered by a masonry and lime mortar facing.
The parapet walk is found at the top of this part of the east wall. This walk leads to the Bastion and from there, to the Main Tower. The parapet walk has a series of merlons from different periods:
Those located at the south side, built in pouring concrete seems to correspond to the most ancient merlons, those of the Almohad period, although probably with later additions. These merlons still conserve the holes at the sides to place panels that covered the merlons, similar to those of the White Tower.
The merlons in the north side are built with a different technique, masonry and brick, with loopholes that remind of those located in the western wall, dating back to the 18th century.
The visitor must know that alike in other parts of the castle, the curtain wall was hidden by more recent constructions that concealed the view. In fact, as an example, the archaeological intervention highlighted the existence of an attached stairway that started at the north of the Parade Ground and ended at the parapet walk of the east wall curtain.

The Bastion is a 16th century construction. However it is so only in appearance, since in reality the construction is an adaptation of an existing tower to the new defensive needs that arose from the use of firearms and gunpowder. Such fact has... leer más

The Bastion is a 16th century construction. However it is so only in appearance, since in reality the construction is an adaptation of an existing tower to the new defensive needs that arose from the use of firearms and gunpowder. Such fact has been demonstrated thanks to the excavations.
But besides that, the different work chronicles from the 16th century mention the existence of a tower called at that time torrió, torrigó, turrijó or turrija, which was repaired and adapted to transform it into the Bastion. This data is revealing when trying to locate precisely the so called Turrijó—an unavoidable transit area towards the Sueca or Main Tower—, and to establish when it was transformed into a Bastion to serve two purposes: the protection against a powder artillery attack and the possibility to locate adequate pieces of artillery that warded off any enemy attack. In fact, a 1583 chronicle relates the request of a series of artillery pieces, more specifically a saker that could shoot balls weighting 4 to 6 pounds and a demi-culverin that shot balls weighting between 9 and 12 pounds approximately.
The 19th century modifications, a direct consequence of the Carlist Wars, meant the elevation of the Bastion’s top platform, which entailed the building of a stairway that could bridge the height difference between the parapet walk and the new platform. At the same time, the access door of the Main Tower is partially redone. The Bastion’s loopholes wall also dates from this period.
There is archaeological evidence that the former tower, known as Turrijó de las fuentes, located below the Bastion, has a Islamic origin. More specifically, this tower was built prior to the Almohad period, just as the Cap d’Altar and Respatller Towers that we can date back to the 11th century. This semicircular plan tower can be admired from the outside of the fortress, coming out of the Bastion’s interior.

The Main Tower has a square plan, 15 meters at its base and 16 meters high. With such magnitude the tower dominates the landscape, with the river Júcar to the west and the bay to the east. The chronology for the tower is quite long, as it... leer más

The Main Tower has a square plan, 15 meters at its base and 16 meters high. With such magnitude the tower dominates the landscape, with the river Júcar to the west and the bay to the east.
The chronology for the tower is quite long, as it underwent several refurbishments along different periods The present building rises over a primitive tower possibly built between the 9 and 10th centuries, with lime mortar masonry and a wooden framework in the shape of a grill –which we can see inside –a differentiating characteristic when compared to other constructive systems existing in the east of the Islamic peninsula. Maybe the fact of transporting wood through the river from the Cuenca Mountains to the river mouth in Cullera, in order to supply the shipyards in Denia, could explain the use of wood in the construction of the castle towers. This primitive tower was conserved until the end of the 12th century or beginning of the 13th, when the current rammed earth tower of Almohad times was built –– covering the previous one in masonry.
The outside of the Main Tower is indeed an Almohad work made in rammed earth mixing masonry and lime concrete. Maybe our visitors have heard of the Main Tower having different names along the centuries. If it is so, you are not wrong. The Main Tower has in fact been documented with different names. The oldest mention is found in a document that dates from the 13th century, in times of Pedro the Great of Aragon, when it was called Torre Celoquia, that is, the most important. The 16th century chronicles relate how the fortification and defence works were conducted in the castle, when the tower was referred as Sueca’s Tower or Red Tower. The name “Sueca’s Tower” is due to the fact of the tower being oriented towards the village called Sueca, while the name “Red Tower” is due to the colour of the mortar, rich in clay. Once clarified this point, let’s continue with some more interesting data.
Thanks to the archaeological excavations performed inside the tower, we know it was solid up to the access level—located right where it is today—, and had a vaulted room and a terrace crowned by merlons. There used to be another tower before the entrance door, as the 16th century documents state, called torrió, turrijó, torrigó o turrija— a kind of turret that needed to be trespassed and helped defend the access to the tower.
Let’s now go over the history in order to clarify a few more details. With the Christian conquest by Jaime I, half of the castle was given to the San Juan del Hospital order, who were the owners of the Main Tower. In the year 1319, the property of the tower was transferred to the recently created Montesa Order. The property of the castle was recovered by the Crown of Aragon thanks to Pedro IV in the year 1358, right during the war between Castile and Aragon (from 1356 to 1369) —also known as the “War between the two Pedros”— when the castle suffered the siege and conquest by the Christians. Later, when it belonged again to the Crown of Aragon, the king Pedro IV had some towers and wall curtains demolished, as they were in bad state and the castle needed some more defence due to the existing war at that time.
We already mentioned that along the 16th century, some renovations were made in the tower—but also in the rest of the fortress— in order to adapt to the new defence requirements mainly derived from the pirate attacks. In the outside, the terrace wall was demolished and the space was paved with a mixture of grind ceramic fragments and lime. The terrace level is raised some 44 centimetres and the floor paved in masonry, affecting the system that transported the rain water to the cisterns. The tower’s wall was raised and 15 turrets were built, providing them with light artillery. The walls of the room inside were plastered. The turret before it that we mentioned earlier was hidden by the construction of the Bastion and its platform, which would from that time on give access to the Main Tower. Also during this period the names “Sueca’s Tower” or “Red Tower” originated and were included in the works chronicles.
In the 18th century, the access was elevated following the elevation of the inside. At the same time, a staircase leading to the terrace was built, probably replacing that of the 16th century and the previous Islamic one.
Nevertheless, the most important refurbishments were conducted in the 19th century. During the 3rd Carlist War, the tower top was removed to build the loopholes wall in the terrace for the gunfire. The existing vaulted room, from Islamic times, was demolished. The whole space was banked up, the tower became a platform for the gunfire, with no rooms inside, and the access door was thus elevated. Besides, in order bridge the level difference, a staircase was built in the Bastion platform.
However alterations did not yet come to an end. After the Carlist Wars the last refurbishments were made: part of the loopholes were bricked up and the western wall was demolished so as to build a belfry, covering the space with an inverted gable roof in whose beam structure we can still see the bearings.
Nowadays, the visit to the Main Tower, after so many interventions, studies and good restoration, is a must. The view of the empty inside, 16 meters tall, and the remains of archaeological structures at the bottom dating back to the Iberian times are truly overwhelming. Let’s now get our cameras ready as the visit to the terrace will provide splendid views of the four cardinal points.

From the very beginning the castle, built in a Mediterranean climate area with short and irregular rain periods, needed cisterns to collect rain water that supplied in shortage periods. The Castle had two cisterns that we can now admire after... leer más

From the very beginning the castle, built in a Mediterranean climate area with short and irregular rain periods, needed cisterns to collect rain water that supplied in shortage periods.
The Castle had two cisterns that we can now admire after their recovering. Their functioning was simple but very important, as it supplied the soldiers in the event of a siege or surprise attack.
In order to understand how it worked we must use common sense and basic physics laws: the rain water that fell on the terraces of the Guard Room and White Tower was channeled to the cisterns through ceramic pipes built into these building’s walls. So simple and so effective.
These cisterns built in Islamic times had, despite its simplicity, some amazing technical characteristics. First, the waterproofing of their walls and bottom was possible thanks to the use of a kind of fine and compact plaster made of lime and iron oxide, which provided a characteristic reddish colour. Also, in order to avoid the accumulation of dirt in the joints, a half cane was installed around its perimeter, as well as a drain in the centre where dregs settled, facilitating the cleaning and maintenance of the cisterns.
The slightly pointed vault, made of a cane framework on top of which mortar was put, had holes on its sides through which the water flowed on its descent from the terraces, as well as a large central orifice where the well curb stemmed from, enabling the water extraction by means of a pulley and a bucket.
The two cisterns give name to the Patio where they are located, the one perpendicular to the other. Both had an access in their shorter side that enabled the cleaning inside. We know by documents that these cisterns originally stood out above the pavement of the patio, although in the 18th century this was filled in so as to gain height and build the so called Sacristy. Thus, the cisterns were completely hidden by the patio’s pavement.
The 16th century works’ chronicles refer to the cisterns and their poor state of conservation, mostly the cistern next to the Main Tower. By this chronicles we know it was so deteriorated that it could not hold more than a few inches of water, reason why it was bricked up and cancelled. During the archaeological excavations carried out in 2009 this second cistern was found, shut but intact. The inside walls revealed a series of graffiti’s: charcoal drawings, numerals and signatures that have been maintained. As a consequence of this bricking up of the cistern, the well curb that enabled the extraction of water was removed, that is why we currently see only one of them in the patio.